What Are the Standard Pearl Necklace Lengths?

Pearl necklaces come in standard lengths with names of their own. CIBJO, the international jewelry confederation, defines seven of them, from the short collar to the long rope, and each definition applies to strands of natural pearls, cultured pearls or imitation pearls alike.¹

The standard lengths#

Text version of this diagram

A chart with one row for each length on a scale in centimeters: collar from 25 to 33 cm, choker from 35 to 40 cm, princess from 43 to 48 cm, matinee from 50 to 60 cm and opera from 70 to 90 cm, then a single mark for sautoir at about 90 cm and a bar for rope that starts at about 115 cm and runs off the end of the scale.¹ The ranges leave small gaps between them.

How the lengths compare#

The ranges don’t quite meet. CIBJO’s definitions leave gaps between them, for example between a collar’s 33 cm and a choker’s 35 cm, and between a matinee’s 60 cm and an opera’s 70 cm.¹

The choker is the only length that CIBJO also defines by its pearls: a strand of uniform-sized pearls.¹ The two longest lengths are the least exact. A sautoir is any necklace longer than opera length, at about 90 cm, and a rope is a strand of about 115 cm and longer.¹

How a necklace is measured#

On a report from SSEF, the Swiss gemological laboratory, the total length of each strand includes the clasp and is measured to about the nearest 0.5 cm.² CIBJO’s length definitions don’t say whether the clasp is included.¹ For a necklace of several strands, SSEF gives the measurements of each strand and usually calls the longest, outermost strand A.²

Choosing a length#

Since each name comes with a set length, the simplest way to choose is to measure a necklace you already like, end to end, and find its name in the table or in the necklace length guide. The size of the pearls matters too: the page pearl size guide explains how pearls are measured, and how a strand of pearls of about the same size differs from a graduated one. The page styling pearls covers ways to wear them.

What to look for in any strand#

Whatever the length, the pearls on most strands should match in all the quality factors, though designers sometimes mix colors, shapes and sizes on purpose.³ GIA also says experts recommend a knot between each pearl. The knots stop the pearls from rubbing against each other, and keep you from losing them all if the string breaks.⁴ The page restringing pearls explains when a strand needs new string.