How Do You Choose and Buy Pearls?
Short answerChoosing pearls starts with the type, which sets the likely size, color and price, and then the seven value factors: size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre and matching. Ask whether the pearls are natural or cultured and whether they have been treated. In the United States, cultured pearls must be called cultured, and for valuable pearls a laboratory report confirms what you are buying.
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Whether you are buying natural pearls or cultured pearls, buying well comes down to knowing what you are looking at and asking the right questions. This section explains how, without recommending any seller.
Start with the type#
The type of pearl sets much of the price. GIA calls freshwater cultured pearls the most affordable pearl type, and says Akoya cost more than freshwater cultured pearls of similar size and quality, in part because they are rarer and cost more to culture.1 South Sea cultured pearls are the largest,2 and their size, thick nacre, long growth period and demanding growing conditions all add to their value.3
The pearl types and comparisons sections describe each type and set them side by side.
Judge the quality#
Within a type, value depends on size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality and, for jewelry with two or more pearls, matching.2 When the other factors are equal, larger pearls are rarer and more valuable.4 The quality section explains each factor, and the page AAA pearl grades explains why one seller’s grade may not match another’s. The pages what pearls are worth, pearl size guide and necklace lengths go further.
What to ask a seller#
- Natural or cultured? In the United States, a cultured pearl must be described as “cultured” or “cultivated” whenever the word “pearl” is used.5
- Which type? Ask which mollusk the pearls came from and where they were grown.
- Treated? Enhancement is routine for Akoya and freshwater pearls, and can include bleaching, whitening and coloring.6 CIBJO’s standards require a treatment to be declared at the point of sale.7
- Nacre? US guidance treats it as deceptive to misrepresent how cultured pearls were produced, how long they stayed in the mollusk or how thick their nacre is.5
Knotted strands#
GIA says experts recommend a knot between each pearl on a strand. The knots stop the pearls from rubbing against each other and keep you from losing them all if the string breaks.2
When a lab report helps#
For natural pearls and other valuable pieces, a laboratory report confirms what you are buying. GIA’s reports state whether pearls are natural or cultured, the water they grew in, the mollusk when it can be determined, and any detectable treatments, and they grade the pearls on GIA’s seven value factors.1
Start here#
Every page in this section#
- What pearls are worth
What sets the value of pearls, from natural or cultured to type, quality, treatment and supply.
- Pearl size guide
How pearls are measured, the usual sizes of each type, and how size affects value.
- Necklace lengths
The seven standard necklace lengths, collar to rope, in centimeters and inches.
- Pearls for men
Men have worn pearls for centuries; the history, and how to choose pearls today.
References#
- Phoebe Shang (2026). Freshwater Akoyas – A Trending Misnomer for Certain Freshwater Pearls. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Gem Encyclopedia. Pearl Buyer's Guide. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Gem Encyclopedia. Pearl Description. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- Gemological Institute of America (GIA), Gem Encyclopedia. Pearl Quality Factors. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- U.S. Federal Trade Commission (Electronic Code of Federal Regulations). 16 CFR Part 23, Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- Changbo Zhu, Paul C. Southgate and Ting Li (2019). Production of Pearls. Source · DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-96776-9_5 · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- CIBJO, The World Jewellery Confederation, Pearl Commission (2026). The CIBJO Pearl Book (Pearl Blue Book) 2026. Source · Archived copy (accessed 2026-10-25)
- Written by
- Learn About Pearls editors
- Fact-checked
- Learn About Pearls editors,
- Reviewed by
- Simon,
- First published
- Publisher
- Unique Pearl, a pearl jeweler
Revision history
- : First published. First published
How to cite this page
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- “How Do You Choose and Buy Pearls?” Learn About Pearls, Unique Pearl, November 4, 2026, learnaboutpearls.com/buying/.
- Chicago
- Learn About Pearls editors. “How Do You Choose and Buy Pearls?” Learn About Pearls. Unique Pearl. Last modified November 4, 2026. https://learnaboutpearls.com/buying/.
- BibTeX
@misc{lap-buying, title = {How Do You Choose and Buy Pearls?}, author = {{Learn About Pearls editors}}, year = {2026}, howpublished = {\url{https://learnaboutpearls.com/buying/}}, note = {Learn About Pearls, published by Unique Pearl}}
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